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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.